Monday, March 30, 2009

Jinja, Uganda







We travelled a couple hours into Uganda for the weekend to go whitewater rafting on the Nile River. It was amazing. And absolutely terrifying. Class 5 rapids. And as you can see our raft completely capsized. I managed to swallow about 2 liters of the Nile in about 20 seconds. I owe my life to Tutu, the 'safety kayaker' who rescued me. And then offered me a lollipop as some kind of consolation. Or at least to disguise the taste of the river. I was fortunate to share the experience with 6 other girls who are all traveling throughout various African countries for various reasons. Which lended itself to some great conversation for the 6 hour rafting trip.

Saturday night was spent in an intense jumbo Jenga tournament at the bar. And I have to say I had no idea how skilled I was until some friendly bets started being placed.

We went to the source of the Nile on Sunday morning. And I had my first cup of coffee in 5 weeks as well as a moment of silence to mark the occasion.

Opposing Muslim factions met to 'discuss their differences' in the middle of Jinja on Sunday afternoon as dozens of Ugandan troops stood around them armed with machine guns.
A bit unsettling as the crowds of people became larger and louder.

We did eventually make it back to the farm. Another Women's Health group started this morning and they're great.

I can't believe I leave Kabula in 10 days but am looking forward to seeing the coast. Everyone I've spoken to who has done it says it's incredible.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Entamoeba Histolytica


I had never heard of it either. But I got it. Bad. Which led to a 5 day hospital stay here in Kenya. I hadn't been feeling 100% since I came back from Kisumu but you don't really want to be the volunteer complaining of a stomach ache when you're there trying to help other people, some of whom are near death. But on Friday morning, the abdominal pain was getting worse and one of my hutmates, Lucy, said she had not slept because she could actually hear my stomach growling nonstop throughout the night. I was driven out of town to a hospital in Mumias. Thankfully, I was accompanied my Emily, a microfinance volunteer here who took over the daunting task of explaining international health insurance to the hospital administrator before I could be treated.
Initially the doctor thought I had malaria, then e.coli and finally diagnosed me with entamoeba histolytica. And apparently this strain of amoeba, if left untreated, penetrates the intestinal wall and leads to brain and liver abscesses. It is transmitted through contaminated food or water. I have no idea when I got it but nobody else in my group did. There's a strong possibility that the one time I accidentally rinsed my toothbrush with tap water in Kisumu was enough.
After 3 days of IV antibiotics, IV fluids, IV Ranitidine, and IV pain meds, I was switched to the next phase of oral treatment with Diloxanide - a drug I had never taken before or even heard of - and I was quite allergic. Within 2 hours of taking the pill I was engulfed in hives. I even had them between my toes and inside my ears - not something I knew was possible. I was started on a large dose of steroids. The only other treatment for this amoeba is a drug called Aminosidine. Which of course the hospital did not have in stock. They had to go looking for it at other hospitals. It was eventully located and I am happy to report that I was released this morning.
I was very fortunate to have taken out international health insurance before I left. I was the only person in the hospital who had such a thing for my first 3 days. Eventually an engineer from India who was there to set up power at the sugar plant was admitted with Malaria. We had the entire wing to ourselves. In Kenya, the insured and the uninsured are placed in separate areas. In the uninsured areas, 20 - 30 beds are in an open room - highly infectious, with 1 shared hole in the ground for a bathroom and no mosquito netting. Having insurance means a private room with your own bathroom, hot water, mosquito netting, 6 meals a day, and your own nurse.
And I learned how to say, "Iko sowa" which means "It's ok". I said this repeatedly as each healthcare worker I came into contact with apologetically confessed, "Pole. I've never taken care of a muzungu". I think some were genuinely relieved, although a bit surprised to learn that my blood, too, was red. They certainly had never seen red hives on white skin. Which elicited some rather alarming gasps at the time.
There's no such thing as "advance diet as tolerated" here and since I can't drink any water-based liquids that haven't been treated, my first meal after not eating for 2 days was lamb stew. Which was delicious, but a bit heavy.
My doctors and nurses were really wonderful. We had a good time comparing health care in Kenya vs. the U.S. We lost power a few times a day and the generator stopped working a few months ago. There are no IV pumps so the careful positioning of your arm determines whether you get your antibiotics over 2 hours or over 5 minutes. The nurses took care of me in flip-flops. And I wore a "dress" in place of a hospital gown - basically a nonbreathing moo moo that could accomodate 4 of me.
My nurses were very maternal, which I really appreciated. Especially when I was covered with hives. They actually started praying for me when I said I needed more than Prednisone. I was thinking something more along the lines of IV Benadryl, but the prayers were a nice gesture. They boiled milk for me so that I could have tea and tucked my mosquito netting around me every night.
All in all, I am feeling worlds better and counting my blessings.
Regarding the pictures:
1. On the 4th day, I let the nurses do my hair. And this is what they came up with. They laughed so hard they could barely stand. One of them actually fell on the bed.
2. Yes, my IV pole was actually a coat rack. And the reused IV bottles are suspended by handmaid contraptions. Very pretty contraptions though, in a variety of vibrant African colors.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Women's Health

This is my first women's health group. They're great. I'm teaching the 4-day class in a tiny tailoring shop. They seem really receptive to the info and I'm learning a lot about their culture as well.

I'm looking forward to Uganda for the weekend.

Hope all is well back home.

Monday, March 16, 2009

More pictures on Lake Victoria...



Kisumu



We went to Kisumu for the weekend to see the hippos on Lake Victoria. I had no idea that I was hippophobic until I was already on the boat. This is basically the face I had the entire time we were on the water. The hippos weigh about 3 tons a piece and don't really look that amused when you're snapping their photos from a few feet away.

The matatu broke down on the way to Kisumu. The exact nature of the problem is still unclear, but it was fixed with some masking tape.

We stayed in a hotel that had electricity! And running water! It was amazing.

We were able to catch some live African music Saturday night and headed down to a tin shack on the lake on Sunday to have some fresh tilapia served whole. Eyeballs and all.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Pictures















At a club in Bungoma with our translators and drivers



Out for a Tusker with Angela, Lucy, Sheila and Eileen (some of the other volunteers)















Some of the kids I see in the morning when I go for a run. Usually they are running alongside me. Or in front of me to be completely honest.

























Some of the kids from Eipco Jahns (the school attached to the farm)















Hiking at Mt. Sang'alo. Please note the ease with which this little girl is walking barefoot while I'm trying not to dislocate an ankle.

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Kakamega Rainforest

So it turns out that "polepole" means "slow" while "pole" means "I'm sorry". I had these mixed up. So I have been apologizing to the bodaboda drivers for the past week and a half. Embarassing.

The rainforest was awesome. We went on a long hike Saturday when we got there and then a hike that brought us to a summit overlooking the rainforest for the sunrise Sunday morning. The monkeys and butterflies were in full effect.

The mobile clinics have been a bit frustrating the past 2 days. Everything just works so differently here. We all gather around 9 and chat until about 10:30. Then we stop about 7 times to say hello to anyone we see. Then we get out and push the van. Then stop for fruit. Then we drop off the microenterprise volunteers at their sites and we all get out and meet everyone imaginable who has anything to do with the facility. Then we get to a church in the middle of nowhere to set up our clinic and nobody has seen the pastor who has the only key. So we wander around a Swahili-speaking only village and try to make hand gestures that mimic the use of a key. And the people laugh at us. Really hard. We eventually locate the pastor and chat with him for a bit. Set up clinic. Sort through everybody who has shown up to determine who is really sick and who came to see what a white person's hair feels like. Then we see terrible malnutrition and chronic diseases which we have absolutely no hope of treating because none of these remote people have any way to get to a hospital for follow-up. I'm looking forward to the women's health teaching which begins next week. The slots were all filled immediately so at least there's an interest.

Again, I really appreciate the emails. Please forgive me for not responding. They only have dial-up here and my time in town is limited.

Oh, and I was offered 100 cows by our pharmacist. Woooooooooooohooooooooooo!

Friday, March 6, 2009

I stand corrected...

If you pack unattended children onto strangers' laps and allow 4 people to dangle out the open side-door of a matatu, you can actually fit 24. And a live chicken. It's true. I experienced this just today.

We're in town this evening to go to dinner - one of the Canadian volunteers is leaving tomorrow. Rumor has it we're having BBQ goat.

I leave early tomorrow with 3 other volunteers to go to the Kakamega Rainforest for the weekend. We're going on a 6-hour hike tomorrow and a 4-hour sunrise hike Sunday beginning at 3 am. So glad I splurged on the Deet bug spray.

Thanks for all the emails. I really appreciate them.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Mobile Clinics

Hi all. I started mobile clinics and teaching this week. People just start lining up when they see the ICODEI van. Health care is free here for children under 5 but nobody can afford the transportation to get their children to a hospital. A father brought his 19 year old daughter in who had been having 5 - 15 seizures a week for the past 3 years without treatment. Another woman handed us a hospital report for her 2 year old child from September which diagnosed him with splenic carcinoma and she has not followed up. We went to a school for deaf children in the afternoon (the biggest in East Africa) which was incredible. I snuck into a dance class and saw all these children learning to feel the vibration of the drum through their feet.

Today we went to a very rural primary school for HIV awareness teaching and none of the children had ever seen a white person. I'm so glad I bought a camcorder before I came. I got the whole thing on film. They were so excited they were shaking. Our car broke down on the way out, which is a fairly regular thing and within about 2 minutes there were 60 kids around the car singing and banging on empty buckets and asking us to come out and dance. Not exactly the way a breakdown goes in the U.S. But such a better way to spend your time.

I was offered a chicken for marriage. That was a first. The other girls have been offered cows. Which is a much larger offering, obviously. Perhaps I should be offended?!

We all caught boda bodas (bikes with seats on the backs) this afternoon to come into town for a Tusker beer. Life is really great here.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Kabula

I'm safe and happy. Updates may be sporadic. I have a bit of a hike from the sugar cane farm that I'm staying on to the main road and then have to catch a "matatu" into town in order to find internet. A matatu is essentially an 8 person van that accommodates 19 here. I arrived to the farm on Saturday. There are 6 other volunteers here - all from Canada, the UK and Australia. And they're completely awesome. Life without electricity and running water is so much better than I imagined it would be. The reverend who owns the farm that Im staying on (Reuben) brought us all to his parish on Sunday morning so that the town could greet us. They all danced and sang a "welcome and thank you" song in Swahili. Then the church cooked us a huge meal of ugali (maize), chicken and eggs. Everyone here is so kind. And I feel very safe. Everyone knows that I'm staying with Reuben and he is very much respected here. And I imagine he would be a force to be reckoned with if anything happened to one of his volunteers. I went for a hike yesterday with the other volunteers. We somehow accumulated children as we hiked up what used to be an active volcano. It started out 7 of us and we ended up with about 20. It was so great. I get constant greetings of "Jambo mazungu!" which translates to Hey! White person! Which I find a bit humorous. I sat down with Joyce who runs the health clinic here and came up with a plan for the next 2 months. I will be helping to run mobile clinics in remote villages that have no access to healthcare, teaching women's health and teaching HIV awareness to elementary school children. Life is really great here. I miss you all.